M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 14-42mm F3.5-5.6-L

Olympus Lens M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 14-42mm F3.5-5.6-L Focus FFC Replacement

Difficult 2 - 3 hours 10 steps

The screen goes completely black when zooming and pressing the shutter, and a "Check lens status" error appears. After disassembling and checking, it was found that the focus FFC was slightly damaged, which is causing the issue. Since I was able to obtain a new FFC, I have compiled the replacement process into a simple guide. This guide explains the procedure for disassembling the lens to access and replace the focus cable. Required Skills • Precision soldering, disassembly and assembly of tiny mechanical parts, and a peculiar personality that enjoys tedious tasks. Required Tools • Phillips screwdriver (#00 recommended) • Tweezers • Soldering iron and solder sucker, etc. • Spudger • Screw mat (FixMat, or a commercially available magnetic sheet, etc.) Warning • This guide is incomplete as it was created based on memory and photos from that time. I would appreciate it if you could point out any errors. • Repairs carry risks, including the potential for injury, burns, smoking, or fire, and the possibility that the device may end up in worse condition after disassembly. Proceed at your own risk if you choose to try this.

1
Removing the mount
- Remove the three screws on the cover next to the rear lens element.
- Remove the one screw next to the electronic terminal section.
- Remove the four screws securing the lens mount.
- Carefully lift and remove the mount. Be very careful not to lose the four washers located under the mount.
2
Removing the main board
- Unlock the connectors for all ribbon cables connected to the board, then carefully pull them out using tweezers.
- Remove the three screws securing the board and the plastic retainer.
- Remove the plastic retainer and the main board from the device.
3
Removing the zoom ring and external parts
- Pull the zoom ring straight off, taking extreme care not to bend the internal conductive brushes.
- When removing and reattaching the zoom ring, insert a thin, stiff piece of plastic to help install it without bending the brushes.
- Pull off the front-most ring and the purple part underneath it. (You may not need to remove this decorative part.)
4
Removing the outer cylinder (first layer)
- Remove the single screw securing the link dowel and take out the dowel.
- Pull the three large rivets out through the holes on the side of the cylinder.
- Slide the cylinder (outer cylinder) off now that it has been unfastened.
5
Removing the front cover and inner tube
- Remove the three screws securing the black light shield.
- Remove the decorative cover on the front of the lens that has the specifications printed on it.
- Pull out the three small cylindrical pins located under the decorative cover.
- Slide the inner tube toward the rear to remove it.
6
Removing the multi-slot cylinder
- Pull out all three large stepped rivets and three small rivets.
- Remove the distinctive cylinder with many vertical slots.
7
Aperture unit removal
- Carefully lift the internal aperture unit upward to detach and remove it.
8
Removing the spacers and motors
- To avoid damaging the focus motor and photointerrupter, carefully check the positions of the structural notches (slits) as you work.
- Remove the three screws securing the motor mount and photointerrupter mount.
- A small light-shielding plate is fastened together with the screw located right next to the motor. Be careful not to lose it or forget to reinstall it.
- Remove the spacer while the motor and photointerrupter remain attached as a single unit.
- Use the notches in the mechanism to carefully remove the photointerrupter.
9
Focus FFC Replacement (Finally, the core of this repair)
- Use a solder sucker or similar tool to remove the solder from the motor and photointerrupter.
- Applying the soldering tip for too long will melt the surrounding plastic and render the device unrepairable, so work quickly to detach the FFC from the electrodes, using low-temperature solder if necessary.
- Remove the motor and photointerrupter mounts while peeling off the double-sided tape.
- The new FFC is straight, so it cannot be installed as-is. Align it with the old FFC to set the bends in the cable.
- Once you have set the bends, remove the metal fittings and black stickers from the old FFC. Due to the complex structure, it is a good idea to take plenty of photos.
- Solder the new FFC to the motor and photointerrupter, and reassemble it as it was using double-sided tape.
- The FFC is easily damaged, so please take your time and work carefully.
10
Appendix: Damaged Areas
- This is an enlarged photo of the removed FFC. A portion of the bent area is nearly broken, which was causing the malfunction when the lens extended.